Understanding Knit Fabric

It's no secret that knits are my favorite fabrics to sew with.  When I started sewing with knits, it was a whole other story.  I had NO idea what I was doing.  The properties of knits are so different than wovens.  You have to understand those properties before you can create functional clothing from them, something I wasn't aware of when learning to sew.  Below I'm describing the properties of knits, common vocabulary associated with knits and the most common types of knits and their uses.

What are knits?

First off, when I refer to knit fabrics, I'm referring to the fabric, not the act of knitting with yarn (that is a skill I am yet to master).  To put it simply, knits are fabrics that stretch.  Not all fabrics that stretch are knits though, some woven fabrics have elastic woven into them, giving them some stretch.  Knits are created in such a way that no elastic is needed.  The stitch used to create them makes them stretch.

Properties of Knits

To identify a knit fabric, here are some things you should be on the lookout for.

• Knits are stretchy.
• They don't wrinkle easily.
• The edges don't fray.
• They tend to feel softer and more pliable than wovens.

Knit Vocabulary

Hand: Hand is a term used to describe how the fabric feels in the fashion industry.  When you say a fabric has a "soft hand", it means the fabric feels soft.

Brushed

This is a fabric that’s finished with a brushing technique.  It makes the fabric very soft and adds volume to the fabric.  In the image above, the Yellow fabric is brushed.  You can see it's slightly thicker than the black fabric and has a slightly fuzzy appearance.

Float

A float is a strand of yarn that runs across the back of the fabric.  This is typically seen in Jacquard fabrics where multiple colors of thread are used to create a design in the fabric.  Some of the floats are marked in blue above.

Knit/Plain (Stitch)

The "v" shaped stitch on some fabrics is referred to as a knit or plain stitch.  Some of the "v's" are marked above in blue.

Pearl (Stitch)

Pearls are most commonly found on the reverse side of Jersey knits.  They have a rounded shape as seen above in blue.

Loops

Loops give fabric a shaggy appearance.  They increase the surface area and enhance absorbency.  Some loops are marked in the image above in red.

Pile

Pile is the raised surface of a fabric.  In the image above, a portion of the pile is marked in red.

Warp Knits

Warp knits are a type of knit where the yarn zig zags across the fabric vertically.  This form of knitting is much less common.

Weft Knits

Weft knits are the most common type of knit fabric.  One continuous yarn is used to create stitches running horizontally across this type of knit.

Types of Knits:

Full disclosure this is not even close to all the types of knits out there.  This is simply a list of some of the most common types of knit fabric you'll encounter when fabric shopping.

Jersey

Jersey knit is one of the most common knits you'll come across while shopping.  Most jersey is made from cotton, cotton blends, and synthetic fibers.  Jersey knits are characterized by a knit or plain stitch on the front and pearls on the back.  It's typically used for summer clothing including t-shirts and sleepwear.  Casual dresses and blouses can also be made from jersey knits.

Fleece

Fleece fabric is typically made of polyester and is relatively inexpensive.  It is brushed on either one or both sides, giving it a very soft hand.  It has great moisture-wicking capabilities, pulling water away from the body.  Fleece is ideal for on-the-go, winter garments like sweatshirts, gloves and coats.

French Terry

While French terry may sound super fancy (just add the word 'French' in front of it and it sounds high end), it's actually pretty common and almost always made of cotton.  One side is very smooth, while the other side (mostly seen on the interior of garments) has a plush texture made from soft piles of yarn.  You'll most commonly see this in loungewear like sweatpants and sweatshirts.

Rib Knit

Rib knits are characterized by long, vertical columns of knit and purl stitches and are typically made of cotton and cotton blends.  They are used in high-stretch areas due to their elasticity.  The sizes of ribs can vary, while the images above show a 1x1 rib knit.  Rib knits are reversible and are commonly found on sweatshirt cuffs, t-shirt necklines and turtlenecks.

Interlock

 

Interlock fabric is a type of double knit fabric, so it looks the same on both sides.  It is very stable, meaning it won't stretch out of shape when washing or wearing.  It can be made out of both natural and synthetic fibers.  When used for activewear or undergarments, spandex is knit into it to give it extra stretch.  Interlock fabric is used for sportswear, t-shirts and dresses.

Jacquard Knit

There are both woven and knit Jacquard fabrics.  The way to tell the difference is the stretch. Jacquard knit fabric can be either a single (red example) or double knit (grey example).  It typically features complex patterns knit into the fabric.  These fabrics are thicker and most commonly found in structured blouses, skirts, dresses and jackets.

Tricot 

Tricot fabric has a zig-zag effect on the front and is smooth on the back because it is a warp knit.  It can be made from both synthetic and natural fibers.  When made from synthetic fibers, tricot fabrics are most commonly found in swimwear, linings and activewear, giving them a slight shine.  Spandex is usually knit into it to give it stretch.

Velour

Velour is a very soft fabric.  One side is smooth, while the other side is made of loops that are sheared off, leaving a plush, decorative shine.  Velour and velvet are often mistaken for one another.  Velvet is a woven, while velour is a knit.  It is found in home decor, track suits, dresses, pants and sweaters.  It is almost always found in luxury, winter garments.

 

Now that you know more about different types of knits, what types of knits are you looking forward to sewing with?

Happy Sewing,