How to Sew a Double Turn Hem

The double turn hem is a very common hem type and can be used to finish a multitude of garments.  It's a very clean looking finish that can easily take your sewing skills to the next level.  Here are a few criteria I look for when deciding to use a double turn hem:

  1. First, I only use a double turn hem on wovens.  Knits tend to be too thick and lose some stretch where it's folded.
  2. The fabric must be thin.  If the fabric is too thick, the hem can become very bulky.
  3. A double turn hem should be used on straight hems.  Using this on a curved hem will make the hem wrinkle or pucker.

Why use a double turn hem?

Because of the extra step involved with turning the hem under twice, this is typically seen on slightly higher priced garments (extra sewing steps means it will be more costly to produce).  It is also great for lightweight fabrics that fray easily.  Turning the raw edge so it's encased in the hem helps keep the raw edge from fraying, extending the life of the garment.  It also looks cleaner and more professional on the inside of the garment.

Instructions

Supplies:

-Matching Thread

-Sewing Machine

-Iron and Ironing Board

-Pinking Shears (optional)

-Serger (optional)

-Pins (optional)

1) To start, if I'm working with a woven fabric, I almost always finish the raw edge using any of the following methods:

-Serger (this is my go-to, but you not everyone has a serger accessible)
-Pinking shears
-Zig-zag stitch

 

I have a separate post going into greater detail on this step.  You can find it here.

2) An iron is your best friend when it comes to hemming.  Following the hem allowance on the pattern, fold the fabric under towards the wrong side of the fabric.  Press in place.

3) Since this is a double turn hem, we'll turn the hem under once more towards the wrong side of the fabric.  Pin and press in place.

Full disclosure, I'm not a huge fan of using pins.  It wasn't allowed in school while sewing on the industrial machines.  It also just pokes unnecessary holes in the fabric.  There are some fabrics that don't press well though, so pinning is necessary in some situations.

4) Working from the wrong side of the fabric, sew along the folded edge, furthest from the hem opening.

-Sewing along the folded edge will help keep the stitching line straight.
-Keep in mind this will show on the right side of the garment.

-Pro Tip: For lower hems, start and stop stitching along side seams.  For sleeve hems, start and stop stitching at the under seam.  This will hide the backstitching better.

 

Happy Sewing,

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