Hemming Knit Fabric

It's one thing to sew a garment, but when it comes to the final touches, it can make or break your project.  Finishing details, like hems, are so important to a project and can be the difference between looking store bought and handmade.  The best way to accomplish a store bought look is by choosing the right type of hem for the project you're working on.  Below, I'm going over helpful tools and different hem options to choose from.

Helpful Tools

-Knit Hem Tape:  This is is a lightweight, heat activated tape that temporarily holds hems in place.  Many people who don't know how to sew use this as a quick fix for hems if they can't get it to a tailor immediately.  It comes in handy when working with fabrics that like to move around a lot while sewing.  This will secure it in place while you sew.  When working with knits, make sure to get hem tape specifically for knits.  This means it needs to be able to stretch.

-Spray Starch: Spray starch stiffens the fabric, making it easier to work with.  This is especially helpful on knits that like to stretch out of shape.  Spraying this on before ironing your hem will help things stay in place better.

-Walking Foot: You may have heard of a walking foot for quilting, but did you know you can use it when working with knits?  If your knits continually stretch while sewing, switching to a walking foot can help prevent this.  If your machine doesn't come with a walking foot, make sure to purchase one compatible with your machine type.

-Twin Needle: A twin needle is a much cheaper alternative to a coverstitch machine.  It easily swaps out with your regular sewing needle.  All you need to do is add an extra thread spool and you're ready to sew.  This gives the appearance and stretch of a coverstitch.

-Iron/Ironing Board: These may be the most underrated tools when it comes to sewing, but they're so necessary.  Ironing your hem in place before sewing it can save so much frustration down the road.  Trust me on this one.

Hemming with a Coverstitch Machine

A coverstitch machine is definitely a luxury to have.  It was my most expensive machine I've bought to date, but with the majority of my projects being knits, that investment is paying off.  It saves me time in the fact that I don't have to rethread my sewing machine with a double needle, the machine simply sews faster than a regular home sewing machine and I don't have to worry as much about tunneling.

There are four possible hems with the coverstitch machine, which I'm outlining below.

1. Single Needle Coverstitch: I typically use this to understitch knit projects, so I don't normally use it for hems.  This stitch is less sturdy, but provides a sleek appearance.
2. Double Needle Coverstitch (Thin): Because this is a thinner stitch, it works great on smaller garments like intimate apparel or children's wear.  It can be used interchangeably with the wide double needle coverstitch, the only difference being that it's thinner.
3. Double Needle Coverstitch (Wide):  This is my personal favorite.  This can be used the same as a thin double needle coverstitch.  I use it on everything from tees to dresses.  You most commonly see them on t-shirt hems.
4. Triple Needle Coverstitch: A triple needle coverstitch is much less common, but it is very sturdy.  This is found on workwear and other garments that take on a lot of stress.

Hemming with a Home Sewing Machine

Not everyone has access to a coverstich machine, so it's important to understand that you can create a professional hem without the fancy machines.  The home sewing machine also offers the most versatility when it comes to the types of hems you can create.  There are countless ways to hem with a home sewing machine, but for time's sake you'll find my 4 favorite ways to finish hems below.

1. Double Needle Hem: I don't often pull out my double needle for my home machine since I have a coverstitch machine, but this is a great option for seamstresses who don't have a coverstitch machine.  It will give you almost the same look as a coverstitch.  The only difference is the back, but who looks too closely at that anyways?
2. Zig-Zag Stitch: The zig-zag stitch hem is most commonly found on swimwear.  It has great stretch and is very secure.  The width is adjustable on most machines as well.
3. Lightning Bolt Stitch: My favorite thing about the lightning bolt stitch is that it looks just like a straight stitch.  The only difference is, it has tons of stretch.  I love using this stitch around necklines, or areas where smaller hems are necessary.
4. Stretch Stitch Blind Hem:  This stitch is not for everyone.  Some people find it easier to do by hand, but if you're brave, this might be a time-saver on the sewing machine.  A blind hem is found on formalwear or garments where you don't want the hem to be noticeable.  The blind hem takes only a tiny stitch into the right side of the fabric.  You can see the stitching above on the right side of the fabric since I used a contrasting color.  If you use matching thread, it's virtually invisible.

Hemming with a Serger

I rarely hem with my serger.  Typically I use it prior to hemming.  I'll finish the raw edge with the serger and then fold it under and hem it.  It gives me a pretty easy 1/4" line to follow for a thin hem and helps my project look more professional on the interior.  If you plan to strictly use a serger to hem, I've listed my top 2 ways to hem with a serger below.

1. Raw Serged Edge:  I most commonly use this to hem linings.   Lining hems don't need to be perfect since they're on the inside of the garment.  Lot's of my store bought dresses have the lining hems finished this way.
2. Lettuce hem:  Lettuce hems have been seen mainly on children's wear in the past, but it's now becoming more main stream.  I've seen turtlenecks, sleeve hems and lower hems finished with a lettuce hem on women's wear lately.  This requires a little adjusting with your serger, but the finished look is worth it in the end.  While you sew, you'll stretch the fabric, which gives it a 'lettuce-like' appearance.

Overall, when deciding on a machine or stitch to use for your project, always test on scrap fabric first.  Try multiple different options that I listed above and find out what works best for your particular fabric.  Keep in mind, not all fabric is the same, so what works great on one knit fabric might not work so well on another.

Happy Sewing,