All About Invisible Zippers
Invisible zippers are so important when it comes to sewing your own clothes and even home decor. I used to avoid any project that involved an invisible zipper. Call it the laziness in me, but I had a strong dislike for them.
I wasn’t able to avoid them as easily in fashion school, but thankfully, with the help of some brilliant professors, I now welcome the idea of throwing in an invisible zipper here and there. Below, I'm answering some of the most common questions I get about invisible zippers including what an invisible zipper is, how to adjust the zipper size, all necessary tools needed to sew it, parts of an invisible zipper and how to actually install an invisible zipper.
What is an invisible zipper?
It's exactly like it sounds. It's a zipper that isn't seen on the outside of the garment when worn. Invisible zippers are used on pants, dresses, skirts, blouses and trousers. They're most commonly seen along center back or side seams. They're also found on home furnishings like pillow cases and cushions.
Invisible zippers are a little different than other zippers. The teeth (or coils) of an invisible zipper are on the back side of the zipper. This means that once it is sewn into your project, the zipper itself should not be visible from the right side.
Can you adjust the length of an invisible zipper?
While you can't lengthen an invisible zipper, you can always shorten one in a matter of seconds.
1) Mark where you want the zipper to end.
2) Stitch over the coils, back and forth, forming a make-shift bottom stop.
Pro Tip: It's ok to stitch directly on the coils as long as they're polyester or nylon (most invisible zipper coils are). This won't break your needle, but it might dull it. To avoid dulling your needle, just lengthen the stitch length enough to pass over the coil without going through it.
3) Cut off the excess zipper.
Are there different types of zipper feet I can use for this project?
Yes, an invisible zipper foot is the easiest to use, but isn't the most readily available. Most machines come with a standard zipper foot, making this the most accessible option for some people.
How to choose an invisible zipper?
When choosing an invisible zipper, choose a similar color to the fabric you're using. The zipper pull will (ideally) be the only part of the invisible zipper seen once finished. If you can't find a matching color, finger nail polish works great to paint the pull tab a matching color. I suggest doing this before installing the zipper to avoid staining the fabric.
When it comes to length, either choose a zipper the same length as you need or longer. Invisible zippers cannot be lengthened but can easily be shortened (see above).
Parts of an Invisible Zipper
-Pull: It's just like it sounds, the part used to pull the zipper open and closed.
-Slider: Joins and separates the teeth as it slides up and down.
-Coils/Teeth: In the instance of an invisible zipper, the coil, holds the zipper together.
-Top Stop: Prevents the slider from coming off the top of the zipper.
-Bottom Stop: Prevents the slider from coming off the bottom of the zipper.
-Tape: The fabric that the zipper coil is attached to (usually a stiff, woven fabric).
-Right Side: Side where you cannot see the coils, only the zipper pull (this will face the outside of the garment).
-Wrong Side: Side where you can see the coils (this will face the inside of the garment).
How to install an invisible zipper:
Supplies:
-Invisible Zipper
-Fabric
-Ruler
-Tailor's Chalk (optional)
-Fabric Scissors
-Pins
-Thread
-Invisible Zipper Foot or Standard Zipper Foot
-Sewing Machine
-Iron
-Ironing Board
Steps:
1) Prepare the invisible zipper:
2) With the zipper still unzipped, place the right side of the zipper tape on the right side of the fabric.
3) Using an invisible zipper foot or standard zipper foot, sew as close to the coil as possible without stitching through the coil. Begin stitching at the top stop.
4) Unzip the zipper. With the side of the fabric you just sewed facing right side up, flip the edge of the zipper you haven't sewn so the right side of the tape is facing up (figure a). Flip the side of the zipper you haven't sewn one more time so the right side of the zipper is along the right side of the remaining piece of fabric. Pin the zipper tape to the remaining piece of fabric at the top zipper stop (figure b). Ensure the coils align with the seam allowance. Once the top is pinned, flip the previously sewn side of the zipper over the portion you're pinning to make it easier while sewing. Pin the lower edge of the zipper tape (figure c).
-If there's a seam crossing the zipper, make sure the seam marking drawn in Step 3 aligns with the seam.
5) Using an invisible zipper foot or standard zipper foot, sew as close to the coil as possible without stitching through the coil. Begin stitching at the top stop.
6) Sew the seam below the zipper. With the zipper closed, begin sewing at the edge below the zipper. Continue sewing until you get as close to the previous stitching line as possible.
-Continue using the invisible/standard zipper foot. This will help you get closer to the previous stitching line.
7) Finish closing the seam below the zipper by stitching the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Repeat on both sides.
